Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite


Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th


These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.


Rockfax Description
The superb straight crack is a classic product of the Rock and Ice years. Well-protected and good honest hard work. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1952.


ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage *** HVS's , Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , World Graded List , UK's toughest HVS routes , 50 cracks to Squamish , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , WideBoyz Crack School , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Stan , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Severe Stanage , Proper Cracks UK , Stanage HVS Challenge , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Big trad grit list , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Peak grit , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , The Eal List


User Date Notes
hipyhop 18 May Show βeta
βeta: On pre-placed gear from failed onsight attempt
Show beta
βeta: On pre-placed gear from failed onsight attempt
Stanley 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Gutted to fall coming out of the crux. Got it with one rest. Brilliant even though it’s short.
Show beta
βeta: Gutted to fall coming out of the crux. Got it with one rest. Brilliant even though it’s short.
mark s 4 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Hard for hvs
Show beta
βeta: Hard for hvs
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 12 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Actually quite tricky for HVS. Can sometimes be little damp in the middle niche, which makes it a little more pumpy.
Show beta
βeta: Actually quite tricky for HVS. Can sometimes be little damp in the middle niche, which makes it a little more pumpy.
Jus 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Pumpy! Packs a proper punch.
Show beta
βeta: Pumpy! Packs a proper punch.
Stefan Kruger 7 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Nails for the grade!
Show beta
βeta: Nails for the grade!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 170
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 169
Votes cast 153
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Chequers Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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