UKH

10m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the front arete of the buttress using the curving crack to gain a small ledge (5b for shorties). Follow flakes left out onto the face and finish with some urgency. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn 1963.

Ticklists

15 Climbs to do before you die , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , Stanage HVS Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 31 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This is big beta but may save someone hurting themselves. You can place and check gear in the initial crack by toe-hooking the right arete. Give it a go! Otherwise too barndoor-y.
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βeta: This is big beta but may save someone hurting themselves. You can place and check gear in the initial crack by toe-hooking the right arete. Give it a go! Otherwise too barndoor-y.
andybirtwistle 1 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A tad worrying as Andy had just taken a fall on Surgeons Saunter. .My first HVS since reaching 70
βeta?
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βeta: A tad worrying as Andy had just taken a fall on Surgeons Saunter. .My first HVS since reaching 70
leon 17 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: the gear on this is great, which is why i think it's given vs 5a. the route has got some great moves on very positive holds.
βeta?
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βeta: the gear on this is great, which is why i think it's given vs 5a. the route has got some great moves on very positive holds.
Tom Chamberlain 10 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Three stars, no question. Why is it not HVS?
βeta?
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βeta: Three stars, no question. Why is it not HVS?
Nick Smith - Climbers 22 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A direct finish is possible (Rimmington Place - E2 5c) from the good break above the ledge.
βeta?
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βeta: A direct finish is possible (Rimmington Place - E2 5c) from the good break above the ledge.
Nick Smith - Climbers 22 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely HVS (as it is in the printed guide).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely HVS (as it is in the printed guide).

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 108
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 158
Votes cast 156
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Surgeon's Saunter

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)

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