Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A blank corner and desperate roof crack give a 70s classic. Hard bridging moves (loads of small wires) lead up the corner to below the roof where you can finish up Orang-outang to give a popular E3 6b. Stretch into the roof-crack, shuffle towards the lip with your feet on the side-wall then levitate the final moves. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen, Steve Bancroft 1976.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Hard Grit history , World Graded List , UK Extreme Corners , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 of the Best , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , UK smearing corners , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , 100 Best Routes on Grit , James' Winter Grit ticklist

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Amber Gambler

Grade: E4 6a ***
(High Tor)

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