Rockfax Description
Classic and bold. From the right-hand corner, climb a tiny groove to a poor rest. Swing left and pull up with difficulty (small cam - hard to place) then make a layback/stretch to the deep break. Move right and use a pocket to start the final wall. © Rockfax
FA. John Allen 1973.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Good E4s , World Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , 50 of the Best , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , On Peak Rock , Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 100 Best Routes on Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Best Before 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jemima Churchhouse | 20 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Pulling on is hard for the short. I protected it with a runner in the crack out right. Cheating I know, but better than a broken ankle. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pulling on is hard for the short. I protected it with a runner in the crack out right. Cheating I know, but better than a broken ankle. |
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| Ian Milward | 3 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I seem to remember getting a couple of good small rocks, rather than a small friend, in the bottom of the flake when I did it, although it's a fair few years ago now! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I seem to remember getting a couple of good small rocks, rather than a small friend, in the bottom of the flake when I did it, although it's a fair few years ago now! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
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Wee Doris
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)