Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
A steep start on rounded holds and one tricky move up the flake. © Rockfax

FA. John Street 1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage HS Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tyler 14 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A hard pull to start if you don't start up Kelly's Crak, after that it's quite easy
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A hard pull to start if you don't start up Kelly's Crak, after that it's quite easy
Simon Caldwell 28 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: No worthwhile gear until just below the flake, unless (like I did) you climb part way up Kelly's Crack first to place a side runner. Seemed easier than 4a to me, the crux being avoiding straying into Kelly's Crack! I'd say HS 4a or S with side runner.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No worthwhile gear until just below the flake, unless (like I did) you climb part way up Kelly's Crack first to place a side runner. Seemed easier than 4a to me, the crux being avoiding straying into Kelly's Crack! I'd say HS 4a or S with side runner.

Logged Ascents

675 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 70
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 56
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brown's Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Bamford Edge)

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