Rockfax Description
Excellent climbing up the centre of the buttress. The start is steep and strenuous, although on good holds. The upper section is delicate and poorly protected. © Rockfax
FA. Harry Kelly late 1910s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simon Caldwell | 28 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Kelly's Eye (which was first climbed on the same day as Spring Sunshine) is included and is just as much of an eliminate, and not as nice climbing IMHO. And Rockfax claim that it's a selected buttress guide, ie they choose only some of the buttresses but include all the routes on that buttress. Except when they don't! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Kelly's Eye (which was first climbed on the same day as Spring Sunshine) is included and is just as much of an eliminate, and not as nice climbing IMHO. And Rockfax claim that it's a selected buttress guide, ie they choose only some of the buttresses but include all the routes on that buttress. Except when they don't! |
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| Simon Caldwell | 28 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: There's a route missed out of the Rockfax guide, an eliminate between Kelly's Eliminate and October Crack. Spring Sunshine VS 4c, up the right edge of the buttress throughout, really nice climbing but spoiled by the need to avoid using the arete on the right. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There's a route missed out of the Rockfax guide, an eliminate between Kelly's Eliminate and October Crack. Spring Sunshine VS 4c, up the right edge of the buttress throughout, really nice climbing but spoiled by the need to avoid using the arete on the right. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 28 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Dangerously misgraded. S 4b implies a single well protected 4b move, but there is no worthwhile protection until almost half height, and then no more until the top. It's either VS 4b or HS 4a - I'd say probably the latter (that's what Stanage 2002 gives it) though leaving the ground felt harder than 4b. Either way, imagine how you'd feel with the old Stanage guide or OPR both of which give it as Diff! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Dangerously misgraded. S 4b implies a single well protected 4b move, but there is no worthwhile protection until almost half height, and then no more until the top. It's either VS 4b or HS 4a - I'd say probably the latter (that's what Stanage 2002 gives it) though leaving the ground felt harder than 4b. Either way, imagine how you'd feel with the old Stanage guide or OPR both of which give it as Diff! |
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| Monk | 27 May, 2003 |
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βeta: I think 4b is fair for the start. The top is easier but very bold. An excellent route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I think 4b is fair for the start. The top is easier but very bold. An excellent route. |
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| Reds | 5 Nov, 2002 |
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βeta: The day I was there three parties couldn't do the start and I have to admit to cheating on the last bit! I normally climb VS. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The day I was there three parties couldn't do the start and I have to admit to cheating on the last bit! I normally climb VS. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
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P.M.C.1
Grade: HS 4a ***
(Curbar Edge)