To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.
Rockfax Description
This superb piece of climbing tackles the centre of the burnt-orange wall, found under the huge upper roof stack.
1) 6c, 32m. Climb brown scoops to tiny ledges beneath a smooth wall, then move right and ascend twin cracks to a break. Tackle the bulge above, move left to the main crackline, and climb this to better holds in a break; move up and right to a nut/thread belay below the roofs.
2) 6b, 10m. Traverse rightwards, and crank through the roofs above to gain the groove left of Puritan. Follow this more easily to the top. © Rockfax
FA. M.Crocker, M.Ward 30/Aug/1987.
100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The Best of Pembroke
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There are no ascents logged for this climb.
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Trevallen Cliff)