Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes.
Seasonal Restriction from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.
RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023
Rockfax Description
Some find this the best climb on the wall, especially if you are tall. Climb the rib right of Barbarella (thread out left) then follow a line of holds up right to a small groove. Climb the groove and make a hard move left to a crack and the first bomber gear. Move left again then back right and up to the break. Arrange gear above, then make an outrageous l-o-n-g move to a good hold with a thread. Finish any way you can above. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson 11/Mar/1985.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The Best of Pembroke , 101Pembroke Extremes , Theo's Pembroke ticklist , 30 For My 30s
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Hollow Caves Bay)