Rockfax Description
260m. A classic climb, long, varied and quite strenuous, although not sustained. The main feature is the imposing top corner, where the long crack leading up to the through route under the final chokestone shows up like a needle and its eye from down by the loch. Start directly below the corner about 30m up and right of Steeple.
1. 30m 4b Climb straight up the slab, then step left to a nose at 20m to reach a ledge and block.
2. 50m 5b Above are twin zigzag cracks. Gain these from the right and follow them to a steep wall at 40m. Climb the steep rib on the right to below a grassy terrace.
3. 25m Cross the terrace and climb a slab until a flake leads left to a huge block; belay in a corner.
4. 30m 5b Go up left for 5m, then move right into a flake-crack. Climb this until a narrow ledge below a roof leads left to a bulging crack. Follow this crack to a stance.
5. 15m 4c Go up from the left end of the ledge to gain a slabby ramp and climb this diagonally right to ledges (as for Steeple, whose layback cracks are above), then move right to ledges.
6. 35m 5a Climb the left-facing corner via 'the crack for thin fingers', break out right, then go up and left by blocks and ledges.
7. 20m 4c Go up grooves to the foot of the chimney-crack.
8. 35m 5a Climb this, the Needle Crack, to a ledge.
9. 20m Continue by the line of the chimney to thread a pile of chokestones and emerge on the plateau.
FA R.Smith, D.Agnew, 8 Jun 1962 © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Robin Smith Legacy , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , UK Extreme Corners , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Caff's Cool E1s List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Great Scottish E1 Mountain Routes , Big Routes , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , EUMC - Must do climbs , Hard Rock 2020 , The E1 UK Roadtrip , STAUMC Ticklist , Scottish Climbing Best 10 E1 list? , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , RGU Shelterstone , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Scottish Hard Rock 2020 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , Summer Climbing Trip , Lairig hitlist , Gary Latter's Ticklist (Extremes) , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , Scotland climbing , Big Bunda Boys Badass Bounty , Picos Preparation

Feedback Always Hide βeta