UKH Hills - 'Steeple'

250m.

Rockfax Description
240m. A truly magnificent route, in many ways the finest on the crag, taking a line connecting the lower and upper corner systems. The climbing is very sustained on immaculate rock for the full height of the cliff, and generally well protected. Start from about 5m up a grassy gully below the middle of three sections of the lower corner.
1. 30m 5a Climb the corner, crossing a hard overlap, to belay above a second one.
2. 25m 5a Continue up the second corner and exit left.
3. 45m 4b Climb by short walls and grassy ledges to a grassy terrace below a steep line of weakness (below a right-slanting ramp).
4. 35m 5c The Ramp pitch. Climb up the steep line of weakness to reach a smooth slab leading right (Haystack continues up). Climb the slab rightwards to below an overhang, move right with difficulty (and not obvious which way is easiest) to gain the ramp (when it's not all over!), then climb this to a belay. A superb pitch.
5. 45m 5a Climb a slabby ramp diagonally right to ledges. Go up the layback groove immediately above, then its continuation and move right to the foot of the impressive corner.
6. 40m 5b The Corner has good protection, but tiring to place. Climb the corner (hidden crack)to a niche, then continue to ledges on the left.
7. 20m 5b Twin vertical cracks lead to ledges and the top.
J.Porteous, K.Spence, M.Watson (2NA), Aug 1968
FA J.Lamb, P.Whillance (FFA), May 1975 © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Great Scottish E2s , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , UK Extreme Corners , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Big Routes , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , EUMC - Must do climbs , Greatest E2s in Europe (or thereabouts) , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , 4 Star Scottish rock , A.P's summer , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , Scotland climbing , Big Bunda Boys Badass Bounty , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , Picos Preparation

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User	Date
nv	16 May	Show βeta βeta: Left a gold nut wedged 3/4 of the way up the crux (4th). Please do the right thing and leave it for future teams... it's nice to know you're in the right place on such a wandering pitch ?
Show beta βeta: Left a gold nut wedged 3/4 of the way up the crux (4th). Please do the right thing and leave it for future teams... it's nice to know you're in the right place on such a wandering pitch ?
Spanish Jack	31 May, 2023	Show βeta βeta: All class, but please be careful not to knock of a shower of rocks from the grass pitch (3), as the party in front of us did. Could’ve been their ropes too. And could’ve been much worse outcome.
Show beta βeta: All class, but please be careful not to knock of a shower of rocks from the grass pitch (3), as the party in front of us did. Could’ve been their ropes too. And could’ve been much worse outcome.
Ri	19 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: The rockfall on Pitch 4 does not appear to have altered the grade. Though care should be taken, there is no great evidence of further substantial loose features on this section.
Show beta βeta: The rockfall on Pitch 4 does not appear to have altered the grade. Though care should be taken, there is no great evidence of further substantial loose features on this section.