195m, 6 pitches. The original route has become wrongly overshadowed including the new (2011) guidebook description (which I wrote!)Finally got to check it out in 2012. Crucially the original route avoids the very dirty direct pitch by turning on the LEFT, possibly even touching King Cobra, as opposed to turning on the right by Dawn Grooves as described. Pitch lengths were also misleading. Not finalised but here is an improvement.-
Mongoose
Pitch 1. 5a 40m Tackle the steep layback crack for 20m to the first sloping shelf. Continue by the corner line (wet) before crossing a thin slab left to belay. The top section can be avoided by a crack 5m left once the first shelf is reached.
2. 5b 40m Climb the right wall of the corner by a steep crack (20m) to an easier groove (Dawn Grooves). Continue to a thread belay below an overhung corner. This corner gives the direct variation. (E1 5b, 1975 Choe Brooks, Glyn Edwards, Chris Bauer later claimed by Fowler in 1977).
After failing on the Direct version we bailed off right into Dawn Grooves & ran away asap.
As a result the rest of the description is the original description repeated verbatim. I've added pitch length in metres but
3 5a 20m Step back down and left, then go up left arête of corner to reach twin cracks. Climb these past old peg to small stance and peg belay under the middle of three grooves.(60ft)
4 50m Climb groove, passing two block overhangs and overhung chimney above to belay on ledge, (140 ft.). Signs of rockfall.
5 25m Continue up chimney, step left and climb a crack, (75 ft).
6 40m Climb narrow chimney and short V-corner to the ridge, (120 ft.).

Here is the original recording- Coireachan Ruadha Face. – Mongoose. 675 ft.
Very Severe.
Start below corner-crack 20 ft. left of Crack of Dawn start. Climb
crack to sloping ledge, peg and nut belay (75 t.). Climb crack and
following slab to belay below big corner (75 ft.). Climb right wall of
corner for 50 ft., move left into corner and follow it to thread belay
under overhanging corner (130 ft.). Step down and left, then go up
left arête of corner to reach twin cracks. Climb these past old peg to
small stance and peg belay under the middle of three grooves, (60
ft.). Climb groove, passing two block overhangs and overhung chimney
above to belay (peg) on ledge, (140 ft.). Signs of rockfall. Continue
up chimney, step left and climb a crack, (75 ft.). Climb narrow
chimney and short V-corner to the ridge, (120 ft.).

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Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Skye Rock

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