195m, 6 pitches.
****
A brilliant and very sustained adventure taking the main corner feature up the centre of the cliff. In good conditions useful ice forms on the right wall of the corner. With a big rack it’s possible to link the first two pitches.
1. VII 8 25m
Tackle the steep layback crack for 25m to the first sloping shelf.
2. VII 7 20m
Continue by the corner line before crossing a thin slab on the left (made easier with snow and ice build up on the slab).
3. VII 8 40m
Climb the right wall of the corner by a steep crack. Move back left into the corner, which is followed to a ledge. Head across the ledge to an easier groove (Dawn Grooves) and climb this till 10m below the obvious overhung corner ahead and belay.
4. VIII 8 45m
Move up to the base of the corner and climb this with poor feet (crux) to a niche on the left (possible belay).
Climb the overhanging chimney above on hero hooks to a big shelf below a chimney.
5. VII 7 50m
Climb the tight chimney to an overhang then move up to gain a snow slope leading up to the final awkward corner.
6. 15m. Easy scrabble to the top.
A brilliant and very sustained adventure taking the main corner feature up the centre of the cliff. In good conditions useful ice forms on the right wall of the corner. With a big rack it’s possible to link the first two pitches.
1. VII 8 25m
Tackle the steep layback crack for 25m to the first sloping shelf.
2. VII 7 20m
Continue by the corner line before crossing a thin slab on the left (made easier with snow and ice build up on the slab).
3. VII 8 40m
Climb the right wall of the corner by a steep crack. Move back left into the corner, which is followed to a ledge. Head across the ledge to an easier groove (Dawn Grooves) and climb this till 10m below the obvious overhung corner ahead and belay.
4. VIII 8 45m
Move up to the base of the corner and climb this with poor feet (crux) to a niche on the left (possible belay).
Climb the overhanging chimney above on hero hooks to a big shelf below a chimney.
5. VII 7 50m
Climb the tight chimney to an overhang then move up to gain a snow slope leading up to the final awkward corner.
6. 15m. Easy scrabble to the top.
Jamie Skelton & Tim Miller 10/Feb/2021.
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Route of Interest
Hung, Drawn & Quartered (Winter)
Grade: VIII 8 ***
(Am Basteir)