UKH

110m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An enjoyable route and a good alternative if Via dei Pilastrini is busy. It does suffer from seepage in the cracks so is only advisable after a dry period.
Start by the tower on the right side of the face, below a grassy ramp, to the right of the Trenker Crack. The start is shared with Via dei Pilastrini.
1) III, 60m. Climb a ramp aiming for a grassy amphitheatre (optional belay). Climb slabby rock on the left of this for 5m before traversing back right to belay beneath a steep crack.
2) IV, 15m. Climb direct following a steep crack. Belay where this forks.
3) V-, 35m. At the split, keep left and climb steeply to reach a chimney-gully in the same line. Climb this to a stance above the second chockstone.
4) IV, 25m. Move onto the left wall and traverse to a parallel chimney. Climb this direct past numerous blocks to step left to a cemented peg.
5) III, 40m. Follow easier ground to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
mostly 3 or 4 with a bit of 5-

Fiechtl & Katzer 1924.

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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest

Comici/Northwest Corner

Grade: V- ***
(Punta Col de Varda)
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