An excellent route with a very memorable 'step' (jump!?) from the top of the pillar back onto the main wall. For those feeling less adventurous it is possible to abseil/down climb into the notch and re-climb the wall. Popular and consequently somewhat polished.
Start as for Via Fiechtl.
1) III, 60m. As for Via Fiechtl.
2) IV, 30m. Move right of the crack above (Via Fiechtl continues direct here) then climb a slab for three metres until moves right lead to a chimney-crack. Climb this then exit right to a stance on a ledge.
3) IV+, 35m. Follow pegs back left to the chimney-crack (it is also possible to climb the crack above direct, harder at V) climb this then move back right and follow the right-hand crack direct to a stance below a roof.
4) IV, 25m. Traverse right below the roof then climb either of two parallel cracks direct to a saddle.
5) III, 45m. Follow easy ground towards the summit to reach the exit from the final chimney of Via Fiechtl. Either make a very long and bold step across, or down climb/abseil to a chockstone and climb the opposing wall, then continue easily to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The initial steep crack can be avoided on the right knocks route down to S. The jump across the gap adds interest.
110m, 5 pitches
Gluck, Rezzera 1935.
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