The long dark recess of Moss Gill rises the full height of the crag and sees little sunlight. It is a prized winter line that also gives a traditional summer adventure. It is also a revealing peek at the birth of rock climbing in 1892, the experience being little changed even with Mern gear. A good long dry spell is needed for the best conditions. The first two pitches are wet and dirty and are easily bypassed on the right. Start at the base of the gill.1) 14m. Negotiate the chimney and chockstone to gain a belay on Rake's Progress.2) 25m. Climb the left wall of the gully until below a mossy and wet cave - avoid this on its right. Belay on the ledge above.3) 30m. Continue up the gill and scramble to below a wall on its right - 'The Tennis Court Wall'.4) 4a, 10m. Gain a ledge then make some difficult moves up a crack in the wall above it to reach the grassy ledge - 'The Tennis Court'. 5) 9m. Traverse left to a cave with a roof formed by a massive chockstone.6) 4a, 13m. Climb up the back of the cave and out to the edge - 'The Attic Window'. Make some tricky moves out left - 'The Collie Step' - up to a groove and then back into the gill bed.7) 25m. Take a small rib left of the huge chimney to some blocks and move left to an easy shallow chimney. Climb the chimney to a ledge and belay. (The huge chimney is the line of Collier's Chimney, Severe).8) 25m. Climb a corner and easy short walls to the top. © Rockfax
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Grade: S 4a ***
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