135m, 4 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

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Cold Climbs , Cold Climbs (slimmed down) , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lakes Winter Climbs

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User Date Notes
Exile 20 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did Moss Ghyll on 18.3.06 in good condition. To my mind the pitches were: 1. Slabs to right of guly bed IV 5, although there could have been a slightly easier line than we took. 2. Tennis court wall and traverse V 6. People could suggest IV 6 because the crux is short, but the gear is poor. A fall from Tennis court wall would put you back in the gully bed, a fall from the traverse would be nasty if the rock 1 held, horrible if it didn't. 3. The collie step. IV 5 in the conditions we climbed it, although it could easily be IV 6 with less ice. (We had a front point depth sheet of ice covering the step its self.) 4. Slabs exit IV 4. I think the route is V 6 overall. There is a short crux of 6 that is bold, IV 6 as a grade would suggest overhead gear (e.g. The Message) which Moss Ghyll is more serious than. I also think as a route as a whole it is more dificult than classic grade V gullys like Point Five, Zero, Vanishing e.t.c.
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βeta: Did Moss Ghyll on 18.3.06 in good condition. To my mind the pitches were: 1. Slabs to right of guly bed IV 5, although there could have been a slightly easier line than we took. 2. Tennis court wall and traverse V 6. People could suggest IV 6 because the crux is short, but the gear is poor. A fall from Tennis court wall would put you back in the gully bed, a fall from the traverse would be nasty if the rock 1 held, horrible if it didn't. 3. The collie step. IV 5 in the conditions we climbed it, although it could easily be IV 6 with less ice. (We had a front point depth sheet of ice covering the step its self.) 4. Slabs exit IV 4. I think the route is V 6 overall. There is a short crux of 6 that is bold, IV 6 as a grade would suggest overhead gear (e.g. The Message) which Moss Ghyll is more serious than. I also think as a route as a whole it is more dificult than classic grade V gullys like Point Five, Zero, Vanishing e.t.c.

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Guidebooks for Scafell Crag

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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 17
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Black Crag Icefall

Grade: IV 5 ***
(Black Crag (Dovedale))

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