UKH

24m.

Rockfax Description
Despite the name, not very technical but bold in its central section. Climb straight up the slab (harder for the short and unprotected where it matters) until you join the traverse of Pedestal Route. Finish as for Pedestal Route, or more in keeping, out right as for the Neb Finish to Hollybush Crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock, BMC staffordshire slab exam, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Roaches w sobote? :), The Original 'Classic Rock' List, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, 50 more great HS routes, Roaches Cracks

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kryank 19 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Great route, good holds, and well worth doing the Neb finish, the protection is very sparse, however I didn’t find the climbing too hard as a relatively new VS leader and felt completely comfortable on the route (my belayer was happy when I had topped out though ).
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βeta: Great route, good holds, and well worth doing the Neb finish, the protection is very sparse, however I didn’t find the climbing too hard as a relatively new VS leader and felt completely comfortable on the route (my belayer was happy when I had topped out though ).
madman70 22 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: very little protection until about 10-15 meters up. 5 meters from the top there was some dirt in the holds beware!
Show beta
βeta: very little protection until about 10-15 meters up. 5 meters from the top there was some dirt in the holds beware!
Paul Hy 23 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: i dont notice how bold the bottom section is now!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i dont notice how bold the bottom section is now!
Dean.p.92 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Where’s the bold bit?
Show beta
βeta: Where’s the bold bit?
Iain Thow 19 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: You can get pro on the bottom bit by clipping two opposed nuts together in the pockets. Maybe 4b for the short
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You can get pro on the bottom bit by clipping two opposed nuts together in the pockets. Maybe 4b for the short
Will Hunt 23 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Beware! BrianT and JCT had sex at the top of this!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beware! BrianT and JCT had sex at the top of this!
Si dH 23 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree the Neb Finsih is the best bit, although also considerably harder than the rest of the route and felt very bold. The slab is quite bold but on positive holds so feels ok.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree the Neb Finsih is the best bit, although also considerably harder than the rest of the route and felt very bold. The slab is quite bold but on positive holds so feels ok.
Chris the Tall 15 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Gordon - you can't get more fun than this without it being illegal !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with Gordon - you can't get more fun than this without it being illegal !
Jamie B 3 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I reckon it's only 4b for the short. HS 4a is bang on.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I reckon it's only 4b for the short. HS 4a is bang on.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 175
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 167
Votes cast 173
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Crack and Corner

Grade: HS 4c ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)
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