10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. The tough start gains the centre of the slab and a runner slot. Mantel then stretch/leap for the top. The tall have an unfair advantage (E2 5c-ish) and the short will struggle (E5 6b). © Rockfax

FA. Jonny Woodward 1977.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , BMC staffordshire slab exam , Best slab climbs of the UK , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge , Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , 2017 Target Climbs For Me , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Extreme 2018 , The List , 2019 Targets , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Pete's Peak Treats , Slab Dreams , Absolutely STOKEd on trent (road to western grit mastery) , The Eal List , Best Before 2025 , Winter 23/24 , East and West Top 25 , Will's Whippers

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gus 17 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First time since foothold at the bottom broke. Quite a bit harder now for non Lanksters
βeta?
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βeta: First time since foothold at the bottom broke. Quite a bit harder now for non Lanksters
Jus 19 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A good warm up. Gets that blood flowing! Loved the top move - I smeared.
βeta?
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βeta: A good warm up. Gets that blood flowing! Loved the top move - I smeared.
Fiend 8 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: An oddity. Rather like a badly set climbing wall gimmick problem. I gave up on it. Was pleasant up until there.
βeta?
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βeta: An oddity. Rather like a badly set climbing wall gimmick problem. I gave up on it. Was pleasant up until there.
John H Bull 20 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Look away now to avoid unwanted (ahem)'beta': a Hex 5 (or 4, or 6?) goes a long way to alleviating those 'kicking the friend out' worries.
Show beta
βeta: Look away now to avoid unwanted (ahem)'beta': a Hex 5 (or 4, or 6?) goes a long way to alleviating those 'kicking the friend out' worries.
TomG 22 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Why only 2 stars in the book? A typo?
βeta?
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βeta: Why only 2 stars in the book? A typo?
Robc 30 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The start not to bad but maybe 6b if your short i fell off twice trying to jump, had to put a high insucure smear on to get there, brilliant route though no point in top roping
βeta?
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βeta: The start not to bad but maybe 6b if your short i fell off twice trying to jump, had to put a high insucure smear on to get there, brilliant route though no point in top roping
Adam Lincoln 25 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Whats how good the gear is got to do with if its E4 or not? The E grade is for difficulty aswell as just danger
βeta?
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βeta: Whats how good the gear is got to do with if its E4 or not? The E grade is for difficulty aswell as just danger
JTL 18 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: spare a thought for woodward who is short and had to smear up that top slab in EB,s, probably was 6c for him amd what the hell did he have in those pockets,lets face it, it is a brilliant route and the grade doesnt seem to matter,expect 6b if your a short arse and expect 5c/6a for the start if you are lanky
βeta?
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βeta: spare a thought for woodward who is short and had to smear up that top slab in EB,s, probably was 6c for him amd what the hell did he have in those pockets,lets face it, it is a brilliant route and the grade doesnt seem to matter,expect 6b if your a short arse and expect 5c/6a for the start if you are lanky
Dave Pritchard 7 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I'm only 5'4, and thought the move to the top was 6b, I still found getting off the ground the hardest part though.
βeta?
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βeta: I'm only 5'4, and thought the move to the top was 6b, I still found getting off the ground the hardest part though.
Robo 17 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: You should have gone for the onsight like a real man, Roland. ;)
βeta?
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βeta: You should have gone for the onsight like a real man, Roland. ;)
mark s 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: it might be a little easier if tall for the top but getting into the standing position in the pockets cancels advantage out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: it might be a little easier if tall for the top but getting into the standing position in the pockets cancels advantage out.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Roaches Skyline

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 146
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 149
Votes cast 118
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Borstal Breakout

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Hen Cloud)

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