Rockfax Description
10m. The tough start gains the centre of the slab and a runner slot. Mantel then stretch/leap for the top. The tall have an unfair advantage (E2 5c-ish) and the short will struggle (E5 6b). © Rockfax
FA. Jonny Woodward 1977.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , BMC staffordshire slab exam , Best slab climbs of the UK , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge , Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , 2017 Target Climbs For Me , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Extreme 2018 , The List , 2019 Targets , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Pete's Peak Treats , Slab Dreams , Absolutely STOKEd on trent (road to western grit mastery) , The Eal List , 2025 Benchmark
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Gus | 17 May, 2020 |
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βeta: First time since foothold at the bottom broke. Quite a bit harder now for non Lanksters | βeta? | |
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βeta: First time since foothold at the bottom broke. Quite a bit harder now for non Lanksters |
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| Jus | 19 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: A good warm up. Gets that blood flowing! Loved the top move - I smeared. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A good warm up. Gets that blood flowing! Loved the top move - I smeared. |
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| Fiend | 8 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: An oddity. Rather like a badly set climbing wall gimmick problem. I gave up on it. Was pleasant up until there. | βeta? | |
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βeta: An oddity. Rather like a badly set climbing wall gimmick problem. I gave up on it. Was pleasant up until there. |
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| John H Bull | 20 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Look away now to avoid unwanted (ahem)'beta': a Hex 5 (or 4, or 6?) goes a long way to alleviating those 'kicking the friend out' worries. | ||
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βeta: Look away now to avoid unwanted (ahem)'beta': a Hex 5 (or 4, or 6?) goes a long way to alleviating those 'kicking the friend out' worries. |
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| TomG | 22 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Why only 2 stars in the book? A typo? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Why only 2 stars in the book? A typo? |
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| Robc | 30 Dec, 2003 |
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βeta: The start not to bad but maybe 6b if your short i fell off twice trying to jump, had to put a high insucure smear on to get there, brilliant route though no point in top roping | βeta? | |
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βeta: The start not to bad but maybe 6b if your short i fell off twice trying to jump, had to put a high insucure smear on to get there, brilliant route though no point in top roping |
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| Adam Lincoln | 25 Nov, 2003 |
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βeta: Whats how good the gear is got to do with if its E4 or not? The E grade is for difficulty aswell as just danger | βeta? | |
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βeta: Whats how good the gear is got to do with if its E4 or not? The E grade is for difficulty aswell as just danger |
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| JTL | 18 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: spare a thought for woodward who is short and had to smear up that top slab in EB,s, probably was 6c for him amd what the hell did he have in those pockets,lets face it, it is a brilliant route and the grade doesnt seem to matter,expect 6b if your a short arse and expect 5c/6a for the start if you are lanky | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: spare a thought for woodward who is short and had to smear up that top slab in EB,s, probably was 6c for him amd what the hell did he have in those pockets,lets face it, it is a brilliant route and the grade doesnt seem to matter,expect 6b if your a short arse and expect 5c/6a for the start if you are lanky |
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| Dave Pritchard | 7 Mar, 2003 |
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βeta: I'm only 5'4, and thought the move to the top was 6b, I still found getting off the ground the hardest part though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I'm only 5'4, and thought the move to the top was 6b, I still found getting off the ground the hardest part though. |
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| Robo | 17 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: You should have gone for the onsight like a real man, Roland. ;) | βeta? | |
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βeta: You should have gone for the onsight like a real man, Roland. ;) |
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| mark s | 20 Feb, 2002 |
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βeta: it might be a little easier if tall for the top but getting into the standing position in the pockets cancels advantage out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: it might be a little easier if tall for the top but getting into the standing position in the pockets cancels advantage out. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Skyline
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The Super Girdle
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)