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12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. A powerful start and a technical groove (pull out right as soon as you can) culminate in an insecure and smeary reach for the top. On the final crucial section, the gear is a little too far away for comfort. Low in the grade though harder for the short. © Rockfax

FA. Jonny Woodward 1977.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

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User Date Notes
Gus 17 May Show βeta
βeta: So good, crag to ourselves and great Connies for late May! Mildly terrifying after 2 months in lockdown !!
βeta?
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βeta: So good, crag to ourselves and great Connies for late May! Mildly terrifying after 2 months in lockdown !!
Andrew Barker 16 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I found the crux on this harder than the Wings crux but the top move felt easier. It's definitely E5 for the onsight, especially if you don't place the cams in the pocket (which I didn't do as it seemed too far to reach) as the other gear is lower and smaller. The last move is brilliant.
βeta?
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βeta: I found the crux on this harder than the Wings crux but the top move felt easier. It's definitely E5 for the onsight, especially if you don't place the cams in the pocket (which I didn't do as it seemed too far to reach) as the other gear is lower and smaller. The last move is brilliant.
Aly 5 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Placing the friends is easy, no matter how tall you are. Should this perhaps go down a grade or two?
βeta?
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βeta: Placing the friends is easy, no matter how tall you are. Should this perhaps go down a grade or two?
Col Allott 29 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Much better than "Wings...". EVERY move is worth 3 stars. Awesome.
βeta?
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βeta: Much better than "Wings...". EVERY move is worth 3 stars. Awesome.
Iggy_B 30 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 3* route without a doubt. All the moves are good and the start is such a contrast.
βeta?
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βeta: 3* route without a doubt. All the moves are good and the start is such a contrast.
Ropeboy 4 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Easier than Wings but slightly bolder. The top moves can be dyno'd if you're short as the finishing holds are massive. Probably a bit of a soft touch but a nice one all the same.
βeta?
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βeta: Easier than Wings but slightly bolder. The top moves can be dyno'd if you're short as the finishing holds are massive. Probably a bit of a soft touch but a nice one all the same.
mark s 23 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: if n.t and totc are e5 6b and e5 6a,totc is only worth e4.or n.t is e6,which it aint so totc is e4.if you follow me.
βeta?
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βeta: if n.t and totc are e5 6b and e5 6a,totc is only worth e4.or n.t is e6,which it aint so totc is e4.if you follow me.
Nige M 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I thought long and hard about the potential fall from the last move and in the end I decided to do it because I was convinced that a quick belayer would prevent a ground fall... however, nobody else there seemed to agree!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought long and hard about the potential fall from the last move and in the end I decided to do it because I was convinced that a quick belayer would prevent a ground fall... however, nobody else there seemed to agree!
Dave Pritchard 10 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A Superb route, which I think merits E5 for an onsight ascent (although I am short).
βeta?
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βeta: A Superb route, which I think merits E5 for an onsight ascent (although I am short).
Ian Patterson 17 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A superb route on a superb piece of rock (is the best bit of gritsone anywhere), though I would have thought it was generally accepted as easy for E5.
βeta?
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βeta: A superb route on a superb piece of rock (is the best bit of gritsone anywhere), though I would have thought it was generally accepted as easy for E5.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 65
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 60
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Antithesis

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)