Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Started on right side of the lower arete and climb direct (strenuous) to the ledge below the bold but easier upper arete. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
It can also be started direct (strenuous) up the lower arĂȘte for a full E1 5b tick.

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High E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 29
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Embankment 3

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)

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