Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The juggy lower wall leads leftwards via a flake to a ledge and the fine upper arete, which is superb and photogenic. This is initially bold putting the route at the upper end of the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Allan Austin 1958. Direct start Peter Stone 1998..

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , The Eal List

Feedback

User Date Notes
TimTett 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: the gardener had been out and removed the gorse thus revealing the hidden holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the gardener had been out and removed the gorse thus revealing the hidden holds.
joelairig4164 26 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: If the stranger that lent me an alien cam half way up the route is out there, thank you so so much
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If the stranger that lent me an alien cam half way up the route is out there, thank you so so much
ClimbingNut 8 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: red offset nut useful at crux
Show beta
βeta: red offset nut useful at crux
andyman666999 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: It really isn’t bold - found the flared crack takes a bomber offset nut and there’s lots of small to 0.5/purple cam placements. In addition there are some small constrictions that you can fiddle nuts into, when it gets “thin”
Show beta
βeta: It really isn’t bold - found the flared crack takes a bomber offset nut and there’s lots of small to 0.5/purple cam placements. In addition there are some small constrictions that you can fiddle nuts into, when it gets “thin”
Duz Walker 10 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Warning!! Unsolicuted gear beta follows.... I had backed off this one before above a skinny nut as it felt too bold. Today it felt safe as houses with an en-face rock 7 further out from its predecessor but in the same well used small blind flake at half height. Allowed me to enjoy the beautiful moves and my first ever kneebar showboat. Up there with the best of them.
Show beta
βeta: Warning!! Unsolicuted gear beta follows.... I had backed off this one before above a skinny nut as it felt too bold. Today it felt safe as houses with an en-face rock 7 further out from its predecessor but in the same well used small blind flake at half height. Allowed me to enjoy the beautiful moves and my first ever kneebar showboat. Up there with the best of them.
Si dH 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Pleasantly surprised by the gear, I thought it was going to be bold but it wasn't. 5a coming out of the middle bit where you go round the arete I thought, but as mentioned interestign the whole way. Definitely 3* and definitely only HVS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pleasantly surprised by the gear, I thought it was going to be bold but it wasn't. 5a coming out of the middle bit where you go round the arete I thought, but as mentioned interestign the whole way. Definitely 3* and definitely only HVS.
leon 30 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i found this sustained technical climbing most of the way. excellent route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i found this sustained technical climbing most of the way. excellent route
wilkie14c 8 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: def top of the grade for HVS, Poss E1 as suggested in other guides. solid 5a though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: def top of the grade for HVS, Poss E1 as suggested in other guides. solid 5a though.
slacky 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Took advantage of the weather the other day and led this in the snow :D. Excellent fun, good climbing all the way with spaced gear. Moved round to right of arete soon after getting above the ledge at mid-height, makes for some nice friction climbing, although you can probably stay on the left of the arete for longer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Took advantage of the weather the other day and led this in the snow :D. Excellent fun, good climbing all the way with spaced gear. Moved round to right of arete soon after getting above the ledge at mid-height, makes for some nice friction climbing, although you can probably stay on the left of the arete for longer.
MNA123 30 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: tried this route the other day and after enjoying the great climbing on the lower section,got totally stuck on the middle bit (crux?) up the arete both myself and my mate tried and failed on it,looked a lot harder then HVS 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: tried this route the other day and after enjoying the great climbing on the lower section,got totally stuck on the middle bit (crux?) up the arete both myself and my mate tried and failed on it,looked a lot harder then HVS 5a.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 274
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 261
Votes cast 252
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Roof Route

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Rivelin Edge)

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