Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).

Rockfax Description
Cross the cave from sitting at the back right-hand corner, with left hand on a big hold and right hand on a pinch to finish as for Too Hard for Mark Leach.
Ben's Roof Original, f7C+ - Once at the lip climb more direct using undercuts, without big pocket out left - no knee-bars. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Often logged as the left hand finish. With or without knee bar rests.

Ben Moon.

Ticklists

The Stick It Tick List , Peak Bouldering - Limestone bold star sub 8 problems , Peak Rock/18/A Boulder Primer , Escaping Norfolk , Rock cats getting strong , Peak Trip Ticklist , Sheff , Sheff , Peak 200 , Bus Punters , Peak Lime Bouldering , Peak Problems for Short Ladies , Immediates

Feedback

User Date Notes
UKB Shark 7 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Trying Bens Roof has proved to me beyond anything else that Rob Greenwood is not to be trusted. “Oh this move is so hard - you make it look easy”, “this would be a good long term project for me” yada yada. Boom - he does it next session. Treachery of the lowest order
Show beta
βeta: Trying Bens Roof has proved to me beyond anything else that Rob Greenwood is not to be trusted. “Oh this move is so hard - you make it look easy”, “this would be a good long term project for me” yada yada. Boom - he does it next session. Treachery of the lowest order

Logged Ascents

288 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 108 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
My Lemon

Grade: f7C ***
(Eagle Tor)

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