Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways.
Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.
This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols, see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case. Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.
Dates: 1 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds
Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these birds at at time.
A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".
Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes.
The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended.
Rockfax Description
A great route, although it often seeps on the crux, and is more like E5 when that is wet. A selection of trad gear and a lot of quickdraws are useful. Start by a large boulder below a line of weakness that goes the full height of the wall. Make difficult and polished moves to reach the first ledge, and follow the curving line of weakness up and right to another ledge at 12m. A step left, followed by an awkward pull up, leads to better holds. Then climb a crack to a pinnacle. From its top, move up and left into a niche, before it is possible to move back right to below a slanting V-groove capped by a roof. Move up into the V-groove, exiting it to the foot of a crack left of the small roof. Hard moves up this (crux) lead to good flat holds. Traverse left to an airy mantelshelf, then follow the ledges up and right to the top. © Rockfax
Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales E3's , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Slate 2018/2019 , E is for Easy... Right? , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , North Wales To Do List , Recommended Slate
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ian bryant | 17 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: All routes right of big wall party looked to have wet patches today, which was surprising and disappointing | βeta? | |
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βeta: All routes right of big wall party looked to have wet patches today, which was surprising and disappointing |
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Tom Fullen | 15 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Cleaned 15/8/20. The upper section was becoming quite overgrown. A VERY loose spike followed by a loose block (both are unfortunately very useful jugs) halfway between the first and second bolt. You’d be close to the ground if they blew so consider placing gear between the bolts. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned 15/8/20. The upper section was becoming quite overgrown. A VERY loose spike followed by a loose block (both are unfortunately very useful jugs) halfway between the first and second bolt. You’d be close to the ground if they blew so consider placing gear between the bolts. |
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karelvangoor1 | 1 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Some loose blocks at about 6m off the ground | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some loose blocks at about 6m off the ground |
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Glen Stidever | 25 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Watch out for the rope drag! Take a long extender for the bolt out to the left. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Watch out for the rope drag! Take a long extender for the bolt out to the left. |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Carreg y Saeth)