UKH

Rockfax Description
A great route, although it often seeps on the crux, and is more like E5 when that is wet. A selection of trad gear and a lot of quickdraws are useful. Start by a large boulder below a line of weakness that goes the full height of the wall. Make difficult and polished moves to reach the first ledge, and follow the curving line of weakness up and right to another ledge at 12m. A step left, followed by an awkward pull up, leads to better holds. Then climb a crack to a pinnacle. From its top, move up and left into a niche, before it is possible to move back right to below a slanting V-groove capped by a roof. Move up into the V-groove, exiting it to the foot of a crack left of the small roof. Hard moves up this (crux) lead to good flat holds. Traverse left to an airy mantelshelf, then follow the ledges up and right to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Dinorwig Essentials, North Wales Rock Graded List, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales E3's, a State of Slate, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Slate 2018/2019, E is for Easy... Right?, Hard Rock & Other Classics, Llanberis Slate *** Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Fullen 15 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned 15/8/20. The upper section was becoming quite overgrown. A VERY loose spike followed by a loose block (both are unfortunately very useful jugs) halfway between the first and second bolt. You’d be close to the ground if they blew so consider placing gear between the bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned 15/8/20. The upper section was becoming quite overgrown. A VERY loose spike followed by a loose block (both are unfortunately very useful jugs) halfway between the first and second bolt. You’d be close to the ground if they blew so consider placing gear between the bolts.
karelvangoor1 1 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose blocks at about 6m off the ground
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some loose blocks at about 6m off the ground
Glen Stidever 25 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for the rope drag! Take a long extender for the bolt out to the left.
Show beta
βeta: Watch out for the rope drag! Take a long extender for the bolt out to the left.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 62
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

West Buttress Eliminate

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))
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