Restricted Access

Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways. 

Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.

This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by  First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols,  see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case.  Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds

Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these  birds at at time. 

A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular  routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".

Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes. 

The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended. 

Rockfax Description
A great route, although it often seeps on the crux, and is more like E5 when that is wet. A selection of trad gear and a lot of quickdraws are useful. Start by a large boulder below a line of weakness that goes the full height of the wall. Make difficult and polished moves to reach the first ledge, and follow the curving line of weakness up and right to another ledge at 12m. A step left, followed by an awkward pull up, leads to better holds. Then climb a crack to a pinnacle. From its top, move up and left into a niche, before it is possible to move back right to below a slanting V-groove capped by a roof. Move up into the V-groove, exiting it to the foot of a crack left of the small roof. Hard moves up this (crux) lead to good flat holds. Traverse left to an airy mantelshelf, then follow the ledges up and right to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales E3's , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Slate 2018/2019 , E is for Easy... Right? , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , North Wales To Do List , Recommended Slate

Feedback

User Date Notes
ian bryant 17 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: All routes right of big wall party looked to have wet patches today, which was surprising and disappointing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: All routes right of big wall party looked to have wet patches today, which was surprising and disappointing
Tom Fullen 15 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned 15/8/20. The upper section was becoming quite overgrown. A VERY loose spike followed by a loose block (both are unfortunately very useful jugs) halfway between the first and second bolt. You’d be close to the ground if they blew so consider placing gear between the bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned 15/8/20. The upper section was becoming quite overgrown. A VERY loose spike followed by a loose block (both are unfortunately very useful jugs) halfway between the first and second bolt. You’d be close to the ground if they blew so consider placing gear between the bolts.
karelvangoor1 1 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose blocks at about 6m off the ground
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some loose blocks at about 6m off the ground
Glen Stidever 25 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for the rope drag! Take a long extender for the bolt out to the left.
Show beta
βeta: Watch out for the rope drag! Take a long extender for the bolt out to the left.

Logged Ascents

380 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 66
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Genericon Limits

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Clogwyn Yr Adar)

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