Restricted Access
Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.
This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols, see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case. Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds
Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these birds at at time.
A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".
Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes.
The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended.
Rockfax Description
More sustained climbing on a harder counter line to Colossus. Start just left of Colossus below a slim groove. Climb this past two bolts to a tricky section leading to another bolt. From here trend right to gain a niche in Colossus and move right again to the base of a smooth V-groove. Thrutch up this and then take the stepped groove-line leading up and right to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Summer of dreams , North Wales To Do List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Misha | 20 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: You’d be brave to rely on just the bolts. I used a couple of micros, half offsets 2 and 3 (normal nuts didn’t fit well but there is a more conventional nut or large sling placement just above), a yellow dragonfly (or a silver / purple cam) and gold and red cams. To be fair, most of this wasn’t essential but seemed sensible, particularly a micro above the first bolt. There’s a nut 1 or 2 crack next to the groove after the traverse but I skipped this gear as wasn’t sure the rock would hold a fall - the left hand side of the crack is a creaky flake. The spike at the bottom of that groove is not long for this world (which would make that bit a fair bit harder). I avoided standing on its tip, then tested the tip after moving past it and a shard levered off. Used about 16 draws including a few extenders. Went fine on a single rope. Belay bolts a few metres climber’s left upon topping out. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: You’d be brave to rely on just the bolts. I used a couple of micros, half offsets 2 and 3 (normal nuts didn’t fit well but there is a more conventional nut or large sling placement just above), a yellow dragonfly (or a silver / purple cam) and gold and red cams. To be fair, most of this wasn’t essential but seemed sensible, particularly a micro above the first bolt. There’s a nut 1 or 2 crack next to the groove after the traverse but I skipped this gear as wasn’t sure the rock would hold a fall - the left hand side of the crack is a creaky flake. The spike at the bottom of that groove is not long for this world (which would make that bit a fair bit harder). I avoided standing on its tip, then tested the tip after moving past it and a shard levered off. Used about 16 draws including a few extenders. Went fine on a single rope. Belay bolts a few metres climber’s left upon topping out. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Hyndsight
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Glyder Fach)