Rockfax Description
More sustained climbing on a harder counter line to Colossus. Start just left of Colossus below a slim groove. Climb this past two bolts to a tricky section leading to another bolt. From here trend right to gain a niche in Colossus and move right again to the base of a smooth V-groove. Thrutch up this and then take the stepped groove-line leading up and right to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Summer of dreams , North Wales To Do List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Misha | 20 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: You’d be brave to rely on just the bolts. I used a couple of micros, half offsets 2 and 3 (normal nuts didn’t fit well but there is a more conventional nut or large sling placement just above), a yellow dragonfly (or a silver / purple cam) and gold and red cams. To be fair, most of this wasn’t essential but seemed sensible, particularly a micro above the first bolt. There’s a nut 1 or 2 crack next to the groove after the traverse but I skipped this gear as wasn’t sure the rock would hold a fall - the left hand side of the crack is a creaky flake. The spike at the bottom of that groove is not long for this world (which would make that bit a fair bit harder). I avoided standing on its tip, then tested the tip after moving past it and a shard levered off. Used about 16 draws including a few extenders. Went fine on a single rope. Belay bolts a few metres climber’s left upon topping out. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: You’d be brave to rely on just the bolts. I used a couple of micros, half offsets 2 and 3 (normal nuts didn’t fit well but there is a more conventional nut or large sling placement just above), a yellow dragonfly (or a silver / purple cam) and gold and red cams. To be fair, most of this wasn’t essential but seemed sensible, particularly a micro above the first bolt. There’s a nut 1 or 2 crack next to the groove after the traverse but I skipped this gear as wasn’t sure the rock would hold a fall - the left hand side of the crack is a creaky flake. The spike at the bottom of that groove is not long for this world (which would make that bit a fair bit harder). I avoided standing on its tip, then tested the tip after moving past it and a shard levered off. Used about 16 draws including a few extenders. Went fine on a single rope. Belay bolts a few metres climber’s left upon topping out. |
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Route of Interest
Short Stories
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Never Never Land)