A great traditional climbing expedition with plenty of adventure and variety. Start below a head-height ledge next to a gravel patch, just after a short scramble up a step onto Green Ledge.1) 10m. Gain the ledge and continue to a belay below the huge corner/gully.2) 26m. Take the corner/gully to a grassy ledge with a curving chimney-crack on the right wall.3) 28m. Follow the curving chimney-crack to a ledge and then climb a broken corner to another ledge.4) 14m. Climb a little way up the chimney before thrutching up the wide crack (the 'Stomach Traverse') that branches right. Belay on the ledge above.5) 25m. Take the steep, chockstone infested chimney to a vegetated ledge and then move left to the 'Split Blocks'. Head into the gap and then up the chimney/crack between the blocks to gain their top. Move left passing 'The Strid' to a big ledge.6) 4a, 9m. 'The Nose'. From the corner, tackle the nose on the left via a boulder problem to easier ground then a ledge and belay. Alternatively climb up on good holds to a flake that can be hand traversed left to the belay, HS 4a. © Rockfax
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Grade: S 4a ***
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