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Rockfax Description
Stunning rock but very serious climbing that is reliant on the ageing pegs. Start on a huge boulder left of the big corner on the right-hand side of the Great Wall.
1) 6a, 40m. Pull onto the easy-angled wall and head for a protruding peg. Traverse left below this, thin tape on low spike, to and up a shallow rising rampline to a point beneath twin pegs. Make thin, bold moves up to the pegs and continue up the fingery wall above them for 5m to better holds and some wires. Move on up the still steep wall to another peg. Climb an easier shallow groove to a good jug, and move right to a corner and climb it to a stance on ledges.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb leftwards to meet the top pitch of Black Magic and finish up this. © Rockfax


West Country Climbs


User Date Notes
ferdia 29 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 5/9/19 - 3 new pegs where you need them
Show beta
βeta: 5/9/19 - 3 new pegs where you need them

Logged Ascents

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Style of Ascent
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

From Slovenia With Love

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Carn Vellan)