UKC

Climbs 147
Rocktype Pillow lava
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces N

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Beni Szlivka nearing the end of the first pitch of the amazing Black Magic (E5) at The Great Wall, Pentire Head. © Richard Pollard

Crag features

The rock has good incut holds and good friction. A concentration of marvellous single- and multi-pitch routes up to 230ft. Tick, if you can, Eroica (E2 6a/5b A1), Black Magic (E5 6a) and the amazing Darkinbad The Brightdayler (E5 6a). [Thanks to James Parrott for spotting the error that had shifted this crag to Wales...]

Approach notes

Protected from the tide by boulders. Close to the resort of Polzeath (offering campsites). Drive to Pentire Farm for NT parking.
A track leads across fields to a junction at a stone stile with the coastal footpath. 100m E is a hump, the top of the Great Wall, with a faint path heading down to the E of the col.

Big recommendation for Black Zawn. The routes possibly deserve even more stars even though they are short. Condensation is the enemy and is likely to affect the crag after a clear night. It was in perfect condition today after a cloudy night, 80% max humidity and a north wind.
Kafoozalem - 01/Sep/21
I think the dot on the map needs to be moved a bit!!
andy_pemberton - 12/May/14
The Black Zawn is an area of the Pentire Point crag (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=315)
imogen.fish - 09/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

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