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Rockfax Description
Phenomenal climbing on both pitches mark this route out as one of Britain's best. Although the start is bold the meat of the difficult climbing is reasonably protected. Start on huge boulders 7m right of Eroica at a vague line of weakness below the left side of a narrow ledge at 8m.
1) 6a, 48m. Step up off a boulder onto the wall and climb boldly to the left end of a ledge at 8m. Climb the wall via cracks to a flake and follow it leftwards to a peg in two short left to right-leaning cracks. Traverse left for 4m and make fingery moves up to the line of overhangs above. Follow a steep flake and crack diagonally rightwards to its end and climb the thin crack in the wall above with difficulty to the second stance of Eroica.
2) 5c, 22m. Traverse left into the base of the next corner and climb to where it starts to overhang. Make forceful moves up the steep section to an easing as the corner kicks back. Finish up the wall above. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Good E4s, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, World Class Britain & Ireland, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Moles 6 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There has been a small rockfall at the overlap, in fact it's no longer an overlap at the point you cross it. Still climbs fine but a bit of dubious rock at the scar. Also all pegs are long gone.
βeta?
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βeta: There has been a small rockfall at the overlap, in fact it's no longer an overlap at the point you cross it. Still climbs fine but a bit of dubious rock at the scar. Also all pegs are long gone.
The Jazz Butcher 19 Jul, 2008 Show βeta
βeta: An amazing route up the complex Great Wall face. I was surprised (and strangely pleased) how sustained this route is. It is very technical and gives nothing away, requiring concentration and effort all the way to the belay. The second pitch is pretty fierce as well. Don't expect an easy ride as it would be quite easy to blow it right at the top!
βeta?
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βeta: An amazing route up the complex Great Wall face. I was surprised (and strangely pleased) how sustained this route is. It is very technical and gives nothing away, requiring concentration and effort all the way to the belay. The second pitch is pretty fierce as well. Don't expect an easy ride as it would be quite easy to blow it right at the top!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 38
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Farewell to Stone

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Zawn Kellys Area)