The first pitch provides a varied test of technique and strength. High in the grade. Start under the wide rib to the right of a long chimney.
1) 5c, 35m. Bouldery moves lead up to an overhang, from where hard moves left (peg) gain a sloping ledge on the left side of the main rib. Make a thin sequence up rightwards to the crest of the rib and follow it to a ledge and belay.
2) 4a, 24m. Climb the short wall on the right before heading rightwards on flakes to a corner and finish up this. © Rockfax
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