A worthwhile series of testing pitches on good rock. The second pitch is bold. Start below a crack/groove.
1) 4b, 14m. Move up to below the crack/groove and climb it on good holds - all much steeper than first appearances would suggest.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb rightwards up a slab and make a bold step up left into a right-facing corner. Move up and make another step left into yet another corner. Move up and left once more to a slab and crack which leads to a spike. Swing across and down to a belay at a large flake.
3) 4b, 23m. From the large flake, climb the steep wall on the right to a corner and flakes. These lead to a final corner (the finish of Aardvark) and the top not far above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start from the horizontal bit of Jack's Rake which is just before the dangerous bad step. A few metres right of the start of Aardvark is an easy-looking crack/groove line.
1. 4b Follow the crack/groove (steeper and harder than it looks) to belay on a comfortable ledge on the left.
2. 4b A bold pitch. Climb the gentle slab above, moving right to stand below a right-facing corner groove guarded by a steep little bulge. Obtain as much pro as you can find. Overcome the bulge and move left into a similar groove on good holds but no gear. Repeat the manoeuvre to reach a slab which mercifully supplies good pro. Continue up the narrowing slab until it more or less ends and then shimmy rightwards round the arête into a large corner groove the lower part of which is part of Cook's Tour. Reach an awkward stance with awkward anchors from which awkward rope management may re-unite you with your second.
3. 4b Climb the right facing corner above the stance (not the slanting groove) and continue steeply over some suspicious looking ringing flakes from which the impressive looking left facing corner on your right can be reached and climbed to an abrupt finish.
A fairly long scramble and rightwards wander leads to the walkers' descent from which the Great Gully descent can be reached to return to the foot of Jack's Rake.
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