Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A fine finish from the cave belay at the end of pitch 3. Traverse up and right for 3m to a seat just inside the cave. Pull out over the overhang via a block and swing left to a good thread. Climb leftwards to gain the hanging corner of The Abyss. © Rockfax
FA. F.Ramsey, D.Turnbull 30.6.1990. FSA. J.Lines 1.9.2005.
The Best of Pembroke , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)