Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
The original line here but not a solo unless you try the Deep Water Alien version. Start on boulders below the triangular niche.
1) 8m, 5a. Climb the niche/crack to a big ledge.
2) 12m, 5c. Climb easily up the corner, then continue up to threads below the roof. Move left, then rightwards over the roof. Belay in the back of the cave.
3) 10m, 5c. Drop down right into a bottomless groove. Traverse up and rightwards to belay in a niche (on Anti-Matterhorn).
4) 9m, 5c. Continue scrunging up and right, to belay on a big ledge.
5) 13m, 5a. Step up and left onto the cracked, hanging wall, and press on up the deep crack to the top. © Rockfax
FA. C.Alston, F.Ramsay 23/Apr/1990.
Ticklists
101Pembroke Extremes , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke dreams
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Heaven's Door
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)