UKH

22m.

Rockfax Description
A class act with a big feel. The fine steep crack in the centre of the wall leads through a series of bulges to a ledge out on the right. Balance back left above the roof and sprint for the top. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1957.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Millstone HVS's , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Millstone * HVS In a day , 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 *** , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Michelle's crack ticklist , Millstone Edge , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar

Feedback

User Date Notes
charley 7 Nov Show βeta
βeta: There\'s a very chilled pigeon nesting on the ledge, under the hanging crack.
βeta?
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βeta: There's a very chilled pigeon nesting on the ledge, under the hanging crack.
RaRaTheTiger 19 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Cracking route, quality climbing, spot on at HVS 5a and worthy of *** Sadly lost my no2 yellow camalot to the final crack at the end of the headwalll. If anyone is able to recover this I'd be grateful! Long shot but please get in touch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cracking route, quality climbing, spot on at HVS 5a and worthy of *** Sadly lost my no2 yellow camalot to the final crack at the end of the headwalll. If anyone is able to recover this I'd be grateful! Long shot but please get in touch.
Alan James - UKC and UKH 11 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with committing pull onto the headwall.
βeta?
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βeta: Great route with committing pull onto the headwall.
JDDD 18 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Tip top route. Sure, Great North Road are excellent routes, but routes like this should not be over looked. It has a classic aspect about it with the climber having to negociate overhangs and bird do do. All adds to the atmosphere.
βeta?
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βeta: Tip top route. Sure, Great North Road are excellent routes, but routes like this should not be over looked. It has a classic aspect about it with the climber having to negociate overhangs and bird do do. All adds to the atmosphere.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 12 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Are you sure you did the right route Tom? This is a stunning line, only downside was the bird sh*t but you can scoot around that no problems.
βeta?
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βeta: Are you sure you did the right route Tom? This is a stunning line, only downside was the bird sh*t but you can scoot around that no problems.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 27 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: What a terrible route! One of the most disappointing routes I've done at Millstone. Never, ever worth 3 stars. Dexterity, Bond st etc are in a different league.
βeta?
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βeta: What a terrible route! One of the most disappointing routes I've done at Millstone. Never, ever worth 3 stars. Dexterity, Bond st etc are in a different league.
Offwidth 25 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route and HVS 5a*** is spot on. There is a hand jam in the top crack which when established should be enough to allow you to place gear (the lips are often sandy). Those with short arms will need to crimp at 5b+ at the move back left but I could reach.
Show beta
βeta: Great route and HVS 5a*** is spot on. There is a hand jam in the top crack which when established should be enough to allow you to place gear (the lips are often sandy). Those with short arms will need to crimp at 5b+ at the move back left but I could reach.
Munir Hassan 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Its 5b in On Peak Rock, which is probably fair for the crux move back left to continue on the crack following the overhang. The climb is good up to that point, but the move left (in my view) pushes the route into the three star category. A beautiful HVS solution to an otherwise very difficult move over the overhang. Great North Road is also excellent, and more consistent. But it doesn't have any moves as startling as the one required to overcome the crux of Plexity. Loved it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Its 5b in On Peak Rock, which is probably fair for the crux move back left to continue on the crack following the overhang. The climb is good up to that point, but the move left (in my view) pushes the route into the three star category. A beautiful HVS solution to an otherwise very difficult move over the overhang. Great North Road is also excellent, and more consistent. But it doesn't have any moves as startling as the one required to overcome the crux of Plexity. Loved it!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 145
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 143
Votes cast 141
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Blizzard Ridge

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Rivelin Edge)

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