32m.

Rockfax Description
The most popular route in the quarry, and amongst the best HVS routes in the Peak, up the magnificent long corner. It has a difficult central layback/bridging groove and tricky section to reach the final roof. It used to be split into three short pitches though one biggie is the norm nowadays. © Rockfax

FAA. Peter Biven, Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. Joe Brown 1957.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Millstone HVS's , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Work Hard, Play Hard , UK Classic Corners , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , 50 of the Best , MUMC Ticklist , Millstone * HVS In a day , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Millstone London roads and places (Not finished) , 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 *** , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Michelle's crack ticklist , Millstone Edge , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , York University Students path to greatness , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Pete's Peak Treats , Big trad grit list , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Millstone Starred Routes HVS - E5 , 2023 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Gritstone multi pitch , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , The Eal List , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
WillMancini 8 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Looks intimidating and a very engaging climbing. Went up ready for a battle and never really felt a crux. Well graded with plenty of gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks intimidating and a very engaging climbing. Went up ready for a battle and never really felt a crux. Well graded with plenty of gear.
ashtond6 29 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: It’s a pigeon nest. As you were.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It’s a pigeon nest. As you were.
maddieharper 27 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There’s some birds nesting very near to this climb so would be best to avoid for now :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There’s some birds nesting very near to this climb so would be best to avoid for now :)
Roxyclimbs 22 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climb, look out for all the feet, micro adjustments turned a pumped stance into a resting position. Pretty much bridged all the way up. Took me a while to figure out a sequence for the crux I’ll give it that. Top roof was much easier and less intimidating than it looked. Didn’t use fence posts at the top, more than enough gear to go at building an anchor.
Show beta
βeta: Excellent climb, look out for all the feet, micro adjustments turned a pumped stance into a resting position. Pretty much bridged all the way up. Took me a while to figure out a sequence for the crux I’ll give it that. Top roof was much easier and less intimidating than it looked. Didn’t use fence posts at the top, more than enough gear to go at building an anchor.
Fakey Rocks 8 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: If u want to use the fenceposts, you'll have to tie your ropes together, A 60m rope by itself won't get u back to the edge from the fence posts. Plenty of cam slots a couple of m from top too. Rack yr cams left side!
Show beta
βeta: If u want to use the fenceposts, you'll have to tie your ropes together, A 60m rope by itself won't get u back to the edge from the fence posts. Plenty of cam slots a couple of m from top too. Rack yr cams left side!
meggies 10 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Jackdaws nesting half way up
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Jackdaws nesting half way up
Charlie1653 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: My DMM size 6 is left in at the crux, unable to get it out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My DMM size 6 is left in at the crux, unable to get it out.
I Taylor 1 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There are no in-situ bits of gear as of this date
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are no in-situ bits of gear as of this date
Alexander_Metcalfe 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There\'s an in-situ bomber red nut that can be used for a runner before committing to moving around the overhand. Be careful, bats in the wide left-hand flake one-third of the way up the route.
Show beta
βeta: There's an in-situ bomber red nut that can be used for a runner before committing to moving around the overhand. Be careful, bats in the wide left-hand flake one-third of the way up the route.
dycotiles 24 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome climbing. Contrary to what some people say here, this does not need to be a pumby climb. Look carefully for feet placements, they are available all the way, specially in the hard middle layback section, there are three places here were you can bridge and place gear relaxed and confidently. The top overhang is a breeze. Enjoy.
Show beta
βeta: Awesome climbing. Contrary to what some people say here, this does not need to be a pumby climb. Look carefully for feet placements, they are available all the way, specially in the hard middle layback section, there are three places here were you can bridge and place gear relaxed and confidently. The top overhang is a breeze. Enjoy.
sheffieldchris 21 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: what a climb recently did this route after leaving it a year or so to make sure it was onsite after i thrutched up it the first time. up to the ledge fine on the first ledge tricky the wooden block is in the way if you put a sling on it.love laybacking so dont stop for gear till at 2nd ledge found the bit up to the roof tough once at the roof eases big time top top route
Show beta
βeta: what a climb recently did this route after leaving it a year or so to make sure it was onsite after i thrutched up it the first time. up to the ledge fine on the first ledge tricky the wooden block is in the way if you put a sling on it.love laybacking so dont stop for gear till at 2nd ledge found the bit up to the roof tough once at the roof eases big time top top route
Munir Hassan 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It was my aim for the day but was advised that I didn't have enough runners (8) or gear for a route of that length, so I improvised a couple more and the wooden chock helped save one. The gear is bomber so left longer spaces than I usually would. Left me with warm glow and a week long high.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It was my aim for the day but was advised that I didn't have enough runners (8) or gear for a route of that length, so I improvised a couple more and the wooden chock helped save one. The gear is bomber so left longer spaces than I usually would. Left me with warm glow and a week long high.
Gripped 26 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant, though a shame it’s not 10 pitches long. The sort of route I just want to keep on going....
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant, though a shame it’s not 10 pitches long. The sort of route I just want to keep on going....
MeMeMe 9 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A climb I have wanted to do for ages, it just looks so impressive! Ended up queuing even on a day that was so hot that no right-minded person would be climbing on grit. Also neither my partner nor myself had brought any chalk; just shows you that you don't really need it. Loved the wooden chocks (Are they safe? I just put a sling on one and kept going, seemed solid), middle section was strenuous, roof was fine. Very pleased, big grin once I'd topped out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A climb I have wanted to do for ages, it just looks so impressive! Ended up queuing even on a day that was so hot that no right-minded person would be climbing on grit. Also neither my partner nor myself had brought any chalk; just shows you that you don't really need it. Loved the wooden chocks (Are they safe? I just put a sling on one and kept going, seemed solid), middle section was strenuous, roof was fine. Very pleased, big grin once I'd topped out.
Chris the Tall 20 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route, but I found the reaching the roof just as difficult as the lower layback section.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route, but I found the reaching the roof just as difficult as the lower layback section.
galpinos 20 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route. Got so knackered on the layback had to sit on the midway ledge for five minutes to get my breath back. It's a doddle from there though so it was all okay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route. Got so knackered on the layback had to sit on the midway ledge for five minutes to get my breath back. It's a doddle from there though so it was all okay.

Logged Ascents

2954 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Millstone Edge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 745 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 396
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 368
Votes cast 360
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Croton Oil

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Rivelin Edge)

Loading Notifications...