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Rockfax Description
Exhilarating and exposed climbing up the thin crack in the leaning headwall. Start on the small ledge as for Tree Root.
Climb 3m above the belay and then move right to a ledge. Climb the wall just left of a narrow corner to the midway break. Step left and make a committing move to a huge jug. Jam the finger-crack above to another good hold and bomber gear at its top. Step left to a ramp and force the final wall, moving right to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the best pitches in the area taking the center of the impending wall at the quarries highest point. From the steep slab at the base of the wall mantle onto a ledge at head height and move up leftwards on large flat holds but without much gear to a peg at the horizontal break. Make a steep move to a jug and continue up the finger crack above to another good hold at its top. Step left and move up and then right to finish.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 21
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Sacre Coeur Direct

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Blackchurch)