270m, 6 pitches. A classic climb well worth its stars. It feels desperate and undignified in places. Be prepared to grovel and kneel before the might of Lochnagar...

Since the book has no pitch descriptions:
1. 20-25m Follow the big steep obvious groove for 10m until an airy traverse out right can be made to a big ledge looking down in to the chimney.
2. 50-60m Step in to the chimney and climb steeply until just before it narrows and pull out right with difficulty. Traverse up and right before cutting back left and up in to the turf field. Run it out and find somewhere to belay.
3. 60m(maybe more, be prepared to simu-climb) Traverse up and right until a steep ledge overlooking parallel gully B can be followed to its end. Belay at the base of an obvious steep right facing corner.
4. 50m Climb down a few meters and move up left on to the face of the buttress, follow turfy grooves all the way to the foot of the headwall.
5. 30m Climb up left on to the small ledge and pull through the desperate crux crack. Pull round left of the tower and traverse delicately on exposed ground until easy moves up right lead back to the crest of the buttress. Belay just over the other side of the crest.
6. 50m Climb easily to the summit and celebrate with lots of sweeties.
Around 270m, climbed in 7hours from daybreak.
M. McGhie - Feb 2012


Cold Climbs , In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers , Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray , 3 star Scottish winter , Cold Climbs (slimmed down) , Andy Nisbets Definitive of the Grade , Cold Climbs (Scotland)


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High VII
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Grade: VI 7 ***

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