UKH

580m.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant route that is technically hard and not well travelled - it can be a little dirty and vegetated. It is also likely to be slippery if damp. To add to the difficulties, the route finding is reasonably complex. Approach as above.
1) Ascend the rib to the base of the buttress, aiming for a perched block.
2) There are several options here, but avoid the left-slanting groove and the direct path above the block. Instead a groove/runnel leads up the left side of this apparent impasse. Some grass and more rocky runnels lead to a point where you can move right towards a flat ledge with a large block on its edge.
3) The chaos of boulders above is tackled by a smooth groove and a hard pull over a chockstone to reach a wall that blocks your way. Move right over the blocks to avoid the wall to reach yet another large ledge.
4) Again the direct is too difficult as is the smooth groove to its right. However, you can climb the right arete of the groove to gain a much easier groove to the right again. Follow this past a steep section to some embedded flakes, and find a diagonal ramp that heads up and left. Follow this narrow gangway in a spectacular and nerve-wracking position above the initial groove you avoided.
5) Another easier step leads to another ledge scattered with spikes. Take the leftwards-tilting break to a grassy bay below a chimney. Head 12m to the right and ascend a crack in the slab. Above the scrambling eases and you arrive on a pleasant ridge just above the Snowdon Railway.
Descent - Either descend the Llechog Ridge, Gryn Las Ridge or the The Dragon's Back. Alternatively head on towards the summit of Snowdon and its various descent options. Another attractive option is to continue over and do a scramble up Clogwyn Du'r Addru. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Good scramble with plenty to keep you entertained on the approach rib if you so wish.

Ticklists

Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith , 10 Year Walking And Scrambling Challenge , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ian Stirrups 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Note the approach suggested in the GS guide is not a right of way and the notice on the gate says No Walkers. Suggest starting on the path by the side of the Vaynol and crossing the river where a pleasant path takes you towards the cwm. This the way we came back.
Show beta
βeta: Note the approach suggested in the GS guide is not a right of way and the notice on the gate says No Walkers. Suggest starting on the path by the side of the Vaynol and crossing the river where a pleasant path takes you towards the cwm. This the way we came back.

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High 3S
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High Grade-3
Mid Grade-3
Low Grade-3
High Grade-2
Mid Grade-2
Low Grade-2
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Main Gully Ridge

Grade: Grade-3 ***
(Glyder Fach)

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