Rockfax Description
A good route on excellent compact rock which makes up for the difficult route finding.
Start below a black stripe, 50m below a roof.
1) IV-, 50m. Follow the black stripe on excellent featured rock. Climb a steeper section then continue over easier slabs, moving right to belay below the roof.
2) V-, 40m. Climb direct, with enjoyable moves to the right of a bulge, then continue up easier ground towards a pale slab.
3) IV+, 40m. Climb a crack to the left of the slab to reach a small ledge. Continue direct through a bulge then exit left to another small ledge.
4) IV-, 40m. Climb diagonally left to belay by a chockstone.
5) IV, 40m. Follow a gully then continue in the continuation crack before moving right to exit onto a scree ledge. Continue to the base of a black stripe 5m below a vague corner.
6) IV, 40m. Climb the corner then, where it narrows, exit left. Continue direct then move left (or continue up a crack direct, harder at V-) to a ledge. 15m easy scrambling leads to the final ledge. © Rockfax
FA. Tubaro, Spavento 1986 15/Jun/1986.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
dinodinosaur | 22 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route and fun face climbing with no chimneys! Rockfax pitch lengths are wrong P1- 30m, P2- 25m, P3- 35m, P4- 30m, P5- 25m, P6- 30m will get you to the scramble off ledge. If you follow your nose and the easiest line mostly straight up and slightly left overall you can't go far wrong | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great route and fun face climbing with no chimneys! Rockfax pitch lengths are wrong P1- 30m, P2- 25m, P3- 35m, P4- 30m, P5- 25m, P6- 30m will get you to the scramble off ledge. If you follow your nose and the easiest line mostly straight up and slightly left overall you can't go far wrong |
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Grade: V- ***
(Piz Ciavazes)