Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
The perfect introduction to E5 and on the perfect cliff. Spicy, but safe, with a bit of Buoux thrown in. Climb direct from the Original Route start to rejoin the route in its main groove. Climb up and place some wires then follow the thin crack in the arete until it runs out. Climb coolly to the jug (or thread hold?) and regain your composure. Move up the thin wall above (hidden peg on the left) with one final hard move to pass the break and gain the belay on Original Route. © Rockfax
FA. Phil Burke, Nadim Siddiqui, Al Evans 1979.
Ticklists
The High Tor Top Ten , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Classic Lobs , Four years of university hit list , Hard Peak Limestone Trad , 50 E5s at 50 , Best Before 2025 , Will's Whippers
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Adam Lincoln | 8 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Tat replaced as of today. | ||
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βeta: Tat replaced as of today. |
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| phatlad | 19 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Wonderful, "deliciously run out", technical and genuinely good fun. On a beautiful summer's days you'd think you were in Buoux. One of the best routes bar none. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wonderful, "deliciously run out", technical and genuinely good fun. On a beautiful summer's days you'd think you were in Buoux. One of the best routes bar none. |
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| Tom Briggs | 31 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Wandering, escapable, overgraded and overrated! OK, that may be a bit unfair, but it really is like a F6b+ at an average crag in France. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wandering, escapable, overgraded and overrated! OK, that may be a bit unfair, but it really is like a F6b+ at an average crag in France. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Artless/Hairless Heart
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Froggatt Edge)