UKH

35m.

Rockfax Description
A fine route, tracing the easiest line up the shield. Immaculate rock, good protection and some brilliant technical sequences. Start lower than Original Route to help with rope drag. Move up left and follow the crack as for Tales... until the curving overlap on the right can be gained. Pull out right from this to a rest, then climb direct up a peg-scarred crack (polished) to a good hold. Wander more easily rightwards up the dinner-plate flake and finish direct from its end. © Rockfax

FA. Doug Scott, Clive Davies 1961. The upper flake was much more friable making their ascent terrifying. The route was jokingly renamed every time someone removed one of the aid points. Hook-Crook Wall (4 pts) and Bulldog Wall (1 rest) are both previous n.

Ticklists

The High Tor Top Ten, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, The Top 5 E4's in the UK?, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, E is for Easy... Right?, Best of the rest and the ones that got away

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alimitch 21 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Oh dear, I messed this up, tried to come out of the over-lap far to high, you have to go all the way down to the big foothold and you can reach good flake holds from there
Show beta
βeta: Oh dear, I messed this up, tried to come out of the over-lap far to high, you have to go all the way down to the big foothold and you can reach good flake holds from there
Graham Hoey 27 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The peg -scarred crack is getting rather polished.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The peg -scarred crack is getting rather polished.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 56
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Snug as a Thug on a Jug

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Stanage Popular)
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