High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
A classic journey crossing the main face. With the exception of one short sequence, the climbing is no harder than 5b with delightful balance moves between good pockets. Approach via the first pitch of Skylight and a long ramble rightwards along the grubby ledge system.
1) 5c, 27m. From the Castellan Cave, follow the lower break to gain a rest at the Lyme Cryme stance (possible belay - recommended if you want good communication). Climb the cracks above and place some good wires then take a tricky diagonal line up rightwards to gain a flake. Climb this to the Debauchery stance. It is also possible to traverse right higher up the cracks, when level with the Debauchary stance.
2) 5b, 24m. Pick-pocket daintily rightwards to Darius and follow the juggy flakes up and right until another delicate sequence leads to Original Route. Finish up this and abseil off.
Delicatarius, E3 5c. A superb alternative which includes the best climbing of both routes. Finish up Darius after the delicate traverse on pitch 2 of Delicatessen. Take care with your runners which can unzip from the flake. A safer alternative is to belay on the hanging stance on Perseus after the traverse. © Rockfax
FFA. Unknown. FA. (Pitch 1) Chris Jackson, John Atkinson 1965. (Full route) Jack Street, Ed Ward-Drummond (some aid) 1965..
Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , It's "D" Day at High Tor , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Preparation for the Resurrection , The Festival Of Shite , Peak District Limestone Trad , Lime trad for hobbyists , Peak Traverses
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Paul Evans | 1 May, 2006 |
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βeta: A wonderful route, lovely and (as the name suggests) delicate. On P1 the "lower break" leaves the cave half way up the sidewall. On P2, after crossing Darius, stay low going into Original Route. And that lower bolt on the Original Route stance is looking increasingly manky.. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A wonderful route, lovely and (as the name suggests) delicate. On P1 the "lower break" leaves the cave half way up the sidewall. On P2, after crossing Darius, stay low going into Original Route. And that lower bolt on the Original Route stance is looking increasingly manky.. |
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Alex Mason | 18 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: bloody good goute first e2 on limestone and i reckon its definitive e2 although i didnt really feel the 5c move | βeta? | |
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βeta: bloody good goute first e2 on limestone and i reckon its definitive e2 although i didnt really feel the 5c move |
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phatlad | 19 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Wonderful route, wonderful position. Getting a bit polished now | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wonderful route, wonderful position. Getting a bit polished now |
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Katya | 21 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Better than Debauchery, intricate route finding. Much better to finish up Darius. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Better than Debauchery, intricate route finding. Much better to finish up Darius. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Froggatt Edge)