Restricted Access

High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines: 

  • With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
  • Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
  • When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.

40m.

Rockfax Description
The fifth E4 is the best with magnificent moves and few rests. From the right-hand end of the ledge, move up rightwards to a big flake (as for Yellow BR). Climb the right-hand side of the flake (peg) using a thin crack to gain a hole in the break. Climb up and right from the hole and follow a line leftwards past a flake to finish slightly more easily, reaching grassy ground. © Rockfax

FA. (A6) Phil Burke 1979. Freed the upper section of the aid route Extender. (Amber Gambler & Beep) John Codling, Steve Allen, Nigel Riddington 1982.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Definitive *** Peak Lime

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graham Hoey 29 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Maillon removed. Finish of Ambler Gambler and A6 now climable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Maillon removed. Finish of Ambler Gambler and A6 now climable.
Graham Hoey 13 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A6 now cleaned, maillon to be removed as well. Lowering off here misses out some good climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A6 now cleaned, maillon to be removed as well. Lowering off here misses out some good climbing.
Graham Hoey 3 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The A6 finishing section above the break is now grassed over up to a pointless bolt lower-off. As regards Ambler Gambler, the last section of this is also very grassy. It appears that people now move right from the top thread of Ambler Gambler to join the single bolt lower-off which has two mailons on it. It is possible, and still good climbing, to finish above this bolt, a good move (6a) and steady (not loose) climbing to the top. Belay using tree on right and an obvious one to the left!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The A6 finishing section above the break is now grassed over up to a pointless bolt lower-off. As regards Ambler Gambler, the last section of this is also very grassy. It appears that people now move right from the top thread of Ambler Gambler to join the single bolt lower-off which has two mailons on it. It is possible, and still good climbing, to finish above this bolt, a good move (6a) and steady (not loose) climbing to the top. Belay using tree on right and an obvious one to the left!

Logged Ascents

62 users have logged this

Guidebooks for High Tor

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 18
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mortlock's Arete

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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