UKH

30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A daunting Himalayan peak - or a worthwhile Hen Cloud outing?
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the short steep groove to a stance.
2) 4b, 18m. Starting the steep and slippery crack behind the ledge is tricky, it leads to the easy upper ridge of The Arete. © Rockfax

FA. Arthur Burns 1927.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Advanced beginner Hen Cloud and Ramshaw , Classic Rock , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , The Peak: Past and Present , 100 Western Grit Stars , Darrencabowabo,s hit list , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Hen Cloud , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul Morley 26 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Starting the second pitch. Go right and use the shelf (not visible from the climber's eyeline) for a right foot position. Then a big step up with the left into the crack where it flares out. The left hand reach into the gap above the block above head-height and find a sharp edge to the block to pull back on.
Show beta
βeta: Starting the second pitch. Go right and use the shelf (not visible from the climber's eyeline) for a right foot position. Then a big step up with the left into the crack where it flares out. The left hand reach into the gap above the block above head-height and find a sharp edge to the block to pull back on.
Paul Morley 26 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Real tough. Tricky bits and exposed. Really struggled to get started on the second pitch. Did the whole thing in three pitches not two - put in another stance where it joins Arete, as otherwise it would have been a long pitch with a lot of rope-drag and completely out of sight or sound, so a mid-point helps communication.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Real tough. Tricky bits and exposed. Really struggled to get started on the second pitch. Did the whole thing in three pitches not two - put in another stance where it joins Arete, as otherwise it would have been a long pitch with a lot of rope-drag and completely out of sight or sound, so a mid-point helps communication.
DobloDan 16 Apr Show βeta
βeta: P1 Allan P2 me
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1 Allan P2 me
LakesWinter 5 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A very good climb, severe 4b is bang on for the difficulty, much easier than modern round the corner!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A very good climb, severe 4b is bang on for the difficulty, much easier than modern round the corner!!
joekoruk 16 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome simply awesome. One of the best climbs I have ever had the pleasue of leading. Start of second pitch is a little tricky but amazingly good fun!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome simply awesome. One of the best climbs I have ever had the pleasue of leading. Start of second pitch is a little tricky but amazingly good fun!

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 127
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 118
Votes cast 108
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Chimney

Grade: S 4a ***
(Hen Cloud)

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