R Smith, G Tiso Sep/1961.
Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Robin Smith Legacy, Scottish Classic Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, UK Holiday Plans, Pre-MIA Wishlist, Scottish Rock Benchmarks, Libby Peter's VS Hit List, Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS, Cairngorm Classic Rock Challenge, 50 Top Scottish VS's, Must climb at crags
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
sblake | 2 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tricky couple of moves for vs onto the whaleback. Very small cam protects it but then makes moves harder. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Tricky couple of moves for vs onto the whaleback. Very small cam protects it but then makes moves harder. |
||||
Phil_Brock | 7 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Starting crack on first can be very wet, pushing you right onto drier but featureless slab - friction smears and no gear although it eases as you go up. Crux on first pitch needs a small cam (I used black totem, DMM 00 may fit) or small (and slightly suspect nuts) to protect the friction dependent crux - tricky when your shoes are wet! Definitely feels like 5a. Second pitch can be absolutely soaking wet and there is loose rock and plenty of dirt / grass. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Starting crack on first can be very wet, pushing you right onto drier but featureless slab - friction smears and no gear although it eases as you go up. Crux on first pitch needs a small cam (I used black totem, DMM 00 may fit) or small (and slightly suspect nuts) to protect the friction dependent crux - tricky when your shoes are wet! Definitely feels like 5a. Second pitch can be absolutely soaking wet and there is loose rock and plenty of dirt / grass. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents