Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply between the Dancing Ledge and Valkyrie Buttress Direct, and also east of The Razor's Edge.

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Fine wall climbing on the initial pitch, rounded off by a challenging top pitch. High in the grade. Start just left of a big groove/corner.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the wall, trending left to a down pointing spike. Move left and up past a bulge (peg) into a shallow groove. Continue to a belay on the left at the faultline.
2) 5b, 20m. Trend steeply rightwards under blocks, then over to a small ledge. Move on and rightwards, around an arete, into a corner with a large flake. Finish up this, exiting left. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, A.Wilde, P.Crewe 03/Apr/1972.

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth

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User Date Notes
JamesHopper 12 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fun one with Jamie nearly dieing
βeta?
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βeta: Fun one with Jamie nearly dieing
Marq 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed on 8 April 06. First pitch felt more like 5a then 5b. Second pitch was def harder than first. Rockfall may have been the wedged boulder, because there wasn't one! Belayed off the peg and a couple of nuts in the cramped space. Good route though!
βeta?
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βeta: Climbed on 8 April 06. First pitch felt more like 5a then 5b. Second pitch was def harder than first. Rockfall may have been the wedged boulder, because there wasn't one! Belayed off the peg and a couple of nuts in the cramped space. Good route though!
clipskipper 20 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Some rockfall from lower pitch, so it looks like this needs to be regraded. Volunteers?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some rockfall from lower pitch, so it looks like this needs to be regraded. Volunteers?
Jon Greengrass 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Classic E1 a nice wall to start then a cool traverse and some nice technical moves onto a slab. The Belay is indeed cramped but atmospheric, and the anchors seemed to block holds that would have been handy for leaving the tiny ledge, (crux) a scary but adequately protected traverse leads into nowhere but then jugs arrive and you can romp up enormous flakes to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Classic E1 a nice wall to start then a cool traverse and some nice technical moves onto a slab. The Belay is indeed cramped but atmospheric, and the anchors seemed to block holds that would have been handy for leaving the tiny ledge, (crux) a scary but adequately protected traverse leads into nowhere but then jugs arrive and you can romp up enormous flakes to the top.
purple sue 9 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah, echo Mikes comments about grades. Give it two stars for two really absorbing pitches. A big thankyou to the beneavolent soul who supplied the bomber new belay stake above the top pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeah, echo Mikes comments about grades. Give it two stars for two really absorbing pitches. A big thankyou to the beneavolent soul who supplied the bomber new belay stake above the top pitch.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 48
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Traverse of the Gods

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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