The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Similar quality to Gypsy with some nice steep climbing.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb the right-facing corner and move left around an arete to a ledge. Trend rightwards to another ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb cracks, passing the faultline with conviction and move up to a second roof. Traverse right to a shallow corner (peg) then continue to a bigger corner and finish up it. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, P.Charman 19/May/1974.
Ultimate E1 ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , All-the-starred-non-bird-banned-E1s-at-the-Ruckle-in-a-day challenge
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Bruise Apprentice | 29 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Large undercling jug halfway along the traverse is very loose. Take care not to yard on it too hard or place gear behind it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Large undercling jug halfway along the traverse is very loose. Take care not to yard on it too hard or place gear behind it. |
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McBirdy | 14 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Brilliant route, great positions, nice moves - both pitches very worthwhile - but better still just do it in one pitch. Far more Swanage.... Slightly easier than Gypsy in my opinion - but still great. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant route, great positions, nice moves - both pitches very worthwhile - but better still just do it in one pitch. Far more Swanage.... Slightly easier than Gypsy in my opinion - but still great. |
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ian bryant | 6 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: very enjoyable | βeta? | |
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βeta: very enjoyable |
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psicobloc | 31 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: Brilliant route nicely sustained but never desperate. Did it in two pitches and found it ok for E1. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant route nicely sustained but never desperate. Did it in two pitches and found it ok for E1. |
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kevin stephens | 6 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: An excellent route, far better if done as one pitch with 60m (maybe 50m?) ropes, which may help bump it up to E2 | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: An excellent route, far better if done as one pitch with 60m (maybe 50m?) ropes, which may help bump it up to E2 |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)