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35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the very best VSs at Swanage. Both technical and sustained, but furnished with good protection. Start at a raised ledge below a corner next to a massive boulder.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner until level with an overhang on the left. Traverse beneath this and pull up the wall on good holds to a good ledge and huge flake belay.
2) 5a, 15m. Stand on the flake, then either climb with difficulty direct to the next wide break, or at about the same difficulty, step left and move up to the break. Climb past the overhang above on its left, and finish up the corner above. © Rockfax

FA. B.Snell, W.Lyons 08/Dec/1973.

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, SW Climbs - Swanage, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Memorable Climbs, South West Classic VS's, Dorset, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Weymouth 16 Sep Show βeta
βeta: I thought the peg on P2 was ok-ish considering. I cowtailed it to reduce the leverage
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the peg on P2 was ok-ish considering. I cowtailed it to reduce the leverage
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 18 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The peg on P2 is in pretty shocking condition and if it did snap it would be pretty bad news. As such, the route feels quite high in the grade (not least because that’s the only real protection at the crux).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The peg on P2 is in pretty shocking condition and if it did snap it would be pretty bad news. As such, the route feels quite high in the grade (not least because that’s the only real protection at the crux).
Jon Greengrass 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A nice well protected VS. A route to do again.
 
Show beta
βeta: A nice well protected VS. A route to do again.

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Votes cast 146
Votes cast 145
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
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Redpoint
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Route of Interest

Freda

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)