UKH

30m.

Rockfax Description
A direct corner and crack climb starting as for Tensor II. Follow a corner past a spike and peg to pass a big roof on the right. A chimney allows access to the faultline and a huge ledge (possible belay). Climb the continuation crack to the top. A helmet jam has been used to great effect by more than one team on this route. © Rockfax

FA. A.Webster, D.Hadlum 27/Mar/1967.

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User Date Notes
John Gillott 16 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: You can traverse onto the face to the right, do a high rockover onto the left foot and reach back into the crack with your left hand above the roof. About English 5b. Very unsporting of course.
βeta?
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βeta: You can traverse onto the face to the right, do a high rockover onto the left foot and reach back into the crack with your left hand above the roof. About English 5b. Very unsporting of course.
Jon Greengrass 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The crux is certainly daunting, there certainly aint no holds to help past the crack, but a full body squirm up into the chimney does the trick. The top out is rubbish and I had a wobbler on the upper choss.
βeta?
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βeta: The crux is certainly daunting, there certainly aint no holds to help past the crack, but a full body squirm up into the chimney does the trick. The top out is rubbish and I had a wobbler on the upper choss.
Different Steve 4 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I found the crux daunting but very straightforward with the use of a cunning helmet jam (more a helmet lean)at the bottom of the chimney -perhaps this is one of those 'trick move' routes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found the crux daunting but very straightforward with the use of a cunning helmet jam (more a helmet lean)at the bottom of the chimney -perhaps this is one of those 'trick move' routes.

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Route of Interest

The Maypole

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lulworth)
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