Rockfax Description
A direct corner and crack climb starting as for Tensor II. Follow a corner past a spike and peg to pass a big roof on the right. A chimney allows access to the faultline and a huge ledge (possible belay). Climb the continuation crack to the top. A helmet jam has been used to great effect by more than one team on this route. © Rockfax
FA. A.Webster, D.Hadlum 27/Mar/1967.
Ultimate HVS ticklist , Memorable Climbs , Dorset Routes that are worth doing
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Spencer Noble | 23 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: The large block mentioned in the last comment came loose and fell to the boulders. Rock scar now bearing unstable blocks. Second half of the route dubious and unstable in places. Much care needed. I escaped left on to the VS rather then sketch up the choss. Sure it'll firm up a bit in time but a risk for people below at present. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The large block mentioned in the last comment came loose and fell to the boulders. Rock scar now bearing unstable blocks. Second half of the route dubious and unstable in places. Much care needed. I escaped left on to the VS rather then sketch up the choss. Sure it'll firm up a bit in time but a risk for people below at present. |
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NicolasPolo | 17 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Big block the size of a car very wobbly by the top of the climb. Almost took it off with me seconding the climb, but no luck trying dislodging it from above. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Big block the size of a car very wobbly by the top of the climb. Almost took it off with me seconding the climb, but no luck trying dislodging it from above. |
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John Gillott | 16 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: You can traverse onto the face to the right, do a high rockover onto the left foot and reach back into the crack with your left hand above the roof. About English 5b. Very unsporting of course. | βeta? | |
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βeta: You can traverse onto the face to the right, do a high rockover onto the left foot and reach back into the crack with your left hand above the roof. About English 5b. Very unsporting of course. |
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Jon Greengrass | 22 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: The crux is certainly daunting, there certainly aint no holds to help past the crack, but a full body squirm up into the chimney does the trick. The top out is rubbish and I had a wobbler on the upper choss. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The crux is certainly daunting, there certainly aint no holds to help past the crack, but a full body squirm up into the chimney does the trick. The top out is rubbish and I had a wobbler on the upper choss. |
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Different Steve | 4 Apr, 2002 |
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βeta: I found the crux daunting but very straightforward with the use of a cunning helmet jam (more a helmet lean)at the bottom of the chimney -perhaps this is one of those \'trick move\' routes. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I found the crux daunting but very straightforward with the use of a cunning helmet jam (more a helmet lean)at the bottom of the chimney -perhaps this is one of those 'trick move' routes. |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)