The direct option on the initial pitch of The Fang is also a fine climb. Start at a rib left of the corner containing a holly tree.
1) 5a, 22m. Head up the wall left of the rib passing a small overlap to meet the traverse of The Fang. Continue boldly up a steep open groove on positive holds to a stance and belay.
2) 20m. Pitch 2 of The Fang. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Starts to the left of the 'cave' under the overhang of the fang. Follow a good crack until it joins the fang (traversing in from the right). Where the Fang continues up towards the large flake, Fang Direct moves right into a shallow scoop. Ascend the scoop with interest to good holds and the belay of Fang. Continue and finish as for Fang. Given E1 in the latest Eastern Crags Guide.
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