This is what most people come to climb and it is a great outing, one of the best in the World! The original route is described here and it requires an equally matched team, as the traverse on the last pitch is no place for a fall. Start below a corner/groove capped by an overlap.
1) 4c, 40m. Climb the left edge of the groove to reach the high tide starting ledges. From here, move up and right to a ledge below a conspicuous V-notch in the arete.
2) 4c, 22m. Follow a horizontal line of weakness leftwards, past a difficult section to a hanging belay in the crack of Wen.
2a) High Tide Start, 4c, 30m. For the high tide ledge start climb straight up to join the traverse-line and go to the Wen crack belay in one pitch.
3) 4c, 37m. Climb the wide flake-crack leftwards to a small ledge at 15m. Continue on the same line up flakes for 10m and then traverse left to good holds that lead down and left for 5m to a belay in a niche in the Concrete Chimney.
4) 4c, 40m. This is the most coveted pitch on the climb; the route finding is a work of art, and somehow you climb across an overhanging wall in balance all the way. From the belay, head up the left arete to a line of holds leading left below the roof. Where these holds run out, descend the steep slab, aiming for a fin of rock. A crux move down onto this and then left sees the difficulties over. Move left into a groove, and then horizontally left past another groove, to eventually step down onto a slab. Traverse the slab to a hanging groove with an aluminium peg at its base. A committing move up this leads to an exit left at its top. Walk way back along a small path to a large block bay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A major UK classic taking a rising traverse leftwards across Wen Slab to a sensational finale where the zawn drops away below your feet. The climbing itself is not hard but the grade is well justified due to the exposure and the consequences of either the leader or the second falling off the final pitch into empty space. Carrying prussics is highly recommended. Traditionally climbed in four pitches but the first is often bypassed in the common event of big seas.
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